Moving to San Francisco

topic posted Mon, July 17, 2006 - 11:20 AM by  Bonnie
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So it looks as if my boyfriend and I may be moving to San Fran VERY soon (we live in NYC now). We've been researching neighborhood guides, and asking friend's opinions, etc., etc., and we really like what we've read about Bernal Heights - community, nature, city - it seems to have the perfect mix.

My boyfriend is flying out this week for final interviews and to get a real feel of the neighborhoods and hopefully set up a couple apartment views.

Is there anything specific we should add to his itinerary in Bernal Heights - things to see/do - apartments seem very few and far between there - any recommendations/lists besides craigslist? We've got one appt scheduled for saturday, but I'd love for him to see a few more.
posted by:
Bonnie
New York City
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  • Re: Moving to San Francisco

    Tue, July 18, 2006 - 4:46 PM
    "So it looks as if my boyfriend and I may be moving to San Fran VERY soon"

    Please please do us natives a favor and do not call it "San Fran". it's either "San Francisco" or "the City" (and written, "SF" is fine), but never NEVER "San Fran". That's as bad as calling other places "Atlan" or "New Yor", "Los Ang", or "Bos". One of the things a person must do in moving to a new community is to learn the customs of that community. One of them is saying, "San Francisco".

    Sorry for the static on this, but, well, you know.

    As for neighborhoods, the only thing to do is learn by doing. We can't say what 'hoods you'd like and what you won't. Like NYC, SF hoods vary a lot, but on a smaller scale. Often there's a big difference in only a few blocks.
    • Re: Moving to San Francisco

      Tue, July 18, 2006 - 5:04 PM
      If what you've heard about Bernal appeals to you, you might check out Potrero Hill too.
      • Don't listen to him, no one cares

        Tue, July 18, 2006 - 8:51 PM
        I love Bernal, don't get me wrong....lived here for more than 3 years and have no plans of moving, but maybe before you make up your mind you should ask what isn't so great about living in Bernal (overpriced housing, kinda crappy bus lines, not very centrally located, and it's puke-worthy "cutesy" nickname that I refuse to write because i may hurl). Comparing and contrasting to other neighborhoods is also a good idea, if you've got a second or third choice lined up. Bernal isn't a very big neighborhood, which may explain why there aren't too many listings on craigslist.

        My 2nd choice would be Duboce Triangle or Cole Valley.
  • Re: Moving to San Francisco

    Tue, July 18, 2006 - 8:58 PM
    With so many negative replies, it makes me feel like I should say that we're not all so ... gruff. Someone should give you some useful advice beyond being snobby about what you call our city (as long as you don't say "Frisco", you won't get chased out of town:)).

    Some local realtors/rental agencies include MetroRent, Gateway Management, and Citibrokers. You might also look at sfrenter.com. You can often dig up agencies by looking at their CL ads and finding their websites; you might find a property you really like that isn't in Bernal - but there are many great neighborhoods here, so I wouldn't set your heart on just one.

    Good luck!
    • Re: Moving to San Francisco

      Fri, July 21, 2006 - 1:20 PM
      "With so many negative replies, it makes me feel like I should say that we're not all so ... gruff."

      Well, SF is a rough town, and it always has been rough, going all the way back to the 1850s when guys were drugged and shipped off to work on slave ships bound for Shanghai (the term "shangaied" refers to that).

      Unfortunately, a lot of people come to SF thinking it's Disneyland because they're taken in by all the prettiness. Then they let their guard down and think that they're living in a "new age" commune or something. SF is a rough place, no way around that. That said, I do computer tech support, and I make housecalls. I've been in the homes of rich people and apartments in the Hunter's Point projects where I was escorted into and out of the homes. I have had no problems, but then I'm always aware of my surroundings and I don't flash attitude toward people.

      The only times in my life I was ever assaulted or threatened with assault happened in Berkeley. In one case, drunk white college frat boys chased me with a crowbar because I yelled at them for almost running me over. The other time, some white college frat boys threw a full bottle of Colt 45 malt liquor at me. They missed me and got the elderly lady waiting at the bus stop next to me. But I've not had any such things happen to me in San Francisco.
  • Re: Moving to San Francisco

    Thu, July 20, 2006 - 8:10 PM
    If you can afford it, the condo building at Valencia and Mission, on the edge of Bernal, is renting:
    sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/apa...830.html

    All brand new and fancy, with a parking garage and good access to transit. Not cheap, but if you are living in NYC, it will seem like a bargain.

    (It's telling about the real estate slowdown that these nice new condos aren't selling, and will be rented out instead.)
    • Re: Moving to San Francisco

      Fri, July 21, 2006 - 6:05 AM
      Thanks to everyone for the replies - and you aren't gruff - not in comparison to here in New York. :-)

      We're checking out Cole Valley, Mission District, Bernal Heights, and mmmmayybe Potrero Hill - I thought Potrero Hill wasn't quite as residential as Bernal Heights? I'm really looking for a community-vibe - not too much commercial scattered throughout the residential portion.

      As for what ISN'T great about Bernal Heights - so far the cost vs square footage ratio is better than here in Manhattan, at least the listings we've found on Craigslist. What does "centrally-located mean"? It appears to me that a lot of San Francisco neighborhoods have their own mini-downtown - a strip with the standard coffee house, yoga, locals bar, food, etc. I'm not as concerned about being right in the center of "everything" - i just need the above items to subsist on, along with a cool community vibe of people.

      Thanks again all for the suggestions!
      • Unsu...
         

        Re: Moving to San Francisco

        Fri, July 21, 2006 - 7:38 AM
        "Centrally located" to me means it's easy and quick to get to any other neighborhood in the city. I work downtown, for example, and I have to take 2 forms of public transportation for at least a half hour (on a good day) to get there from BH. Cortland has a little strip with coffee shops, a grocery store, library, and restaurants. If you don't need to go out for art or music, etc. then Cortland could probably meet most of your needs.

        Potrero is very residential -- I used to live on Rhode Island. Potrero is not nearly as walkable as Bernal due to the steepness and ever-presence of its hills. That makes it feel less like a community. In Bernal you will see all kinds of people out and about, walking their dogs or just strolling along.
        • Re: Moving to San Francisco

          Fri, July 21, 2006 - 8:19 AM
          You mention yoga, Bonnie, & Bernal has a very nice yoga studio on Cortland in the midst of everything.

          Much of Potrero is very residential, unless you're near the 18th Street corridor. In the commercial heart, there are many very different restaurants, bars, & coffee houses within a few blocks, plus a bookstore, great video store, etc. Hills make strolling more challenging but on the other hand there are great views of the bay and downtown. Also a couple of yoga studios. Streets are wider and parking easier than in Potrero, if that's a consideration.
        • Re: Moving to San Francisco

          Fri, July 21, 2006 - 8:37 AM
          Parts of Bernal are more convenient to public transit. I live in northwest Bernal. It is a ten minute walk to BART, and then only a few more minutes to downtown.

          If one works on the Peninsula and drives, Bernal is very close to both 101 and 280.
        • Re: Moving to San Francisco

          Fri, July 21, 2006 - 8:43 AM
          so you make a good point. Art galleries, bands, sometimes djs - we DO go out to these things a fair bit (music is a big part of our lives). We're most likely going to have a car for his job (I work from home and travel a couple weeks a month, so i'm more interested in a local vibe - the coffee house to escape to when my apt gets too familiar - yoga to chill out when the job gets too crazy, good parks and walks to get some fresh air) - soo...if we drive to an event in downtown San Francisco, is parking a huge issue there? Is public transportation 24/7 in San Francisco (buses and all?).

          And Bernal Heights has a few local spots, yes? One of the biggest issues I have in my NYC neighborhood is that there aren't very many "locals" kind of places - on the weekends especially everything is innudated with B&T. Event my chill bar next door charges a cover on weekends!!! And there's no live music or anythign special...crazy.
          • Re: Moving to San Francisco

            Fri, July 21, 2006 - 9:17 AM
            At night, driving to the clubs we go to, street parking is easy-- especially South of Market.

            There are neighborhoods, like North Beach, in which parking is quite difficult, but we almost never go there. Parking is difficult in the Valencia and 16th St area, but somehow we always manage to find a parking space. With time, one learns where to look.

            If one lives in some neighborhoods, like the Haight/Cole Valley or the Dolores/Guerrero corridor of the west Mission, the problem isn't finding a space near the club, but finding a space when one gets home, if one doesn't have a garage space. It can be hard to find parking late at night in some parts of Bernal, and easier in others.

            The 14-Mission bus goes 24 hours (BART unfortunately does not), but if one takes transit to a club, it probably makes sense at 2 a.m. to just take a taxi home.

            Bernal is a great neighborhood for folks who work at home-- my partner does, as do many of my neighbors. Good coffee houses, inexpensive restaurants (especially along Mission), yoga, parks, fresh air are all here.
          • Re: Moving to San Francisco

            Fri, July 21, 2006 - 9:49 AM
            Bernal's all local. The only chain is Bank of America. The rest, you'll adore.

            There's good nightlife in the Outer Mission, which is walking distance from Bernal but pretty much everything in our neighborhood (including the coffeeshops, booo!) is closed by 8:00. So your nighttime options are limited to three bars (they are all decent bars, in my opinion). My friends think I'm crazy because I take the bus everywhere and sometimes I think I'm crazy because getting home from anywhere besides the Mission can take a very long time latenight on the weekend. Waiting on the 24 bus has brought out the beast in me. It's an allnight line, but not all Muni bus lines run all night.

            Potrero has its charms too. This is on haitus right now, but they have a walk-in movie night:
            www.walkinmovies.com/

            And there's also this: www.potrerohillsf.com/

            But all gruffness & advice aside, I will just say this: Move to Bernal, becuase it's the greatest!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!****************Woooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
            • Re: Moving to San Francisco

              Fri, July 21, 2006 - 10:18 AM
              There are three bars on Cortland Street, but also several bars/clubs on the west edge of Bernal, on Mission St. For many of us in Bernal, that stretch of Mission is closer than Cortland. We go to two bars on Cortland and three bars/clubs on Mission St. (Anyone know what's up with the latest incarnation of what was the Chaise Lounge?) There are several restaurants on Mission St open late-- but coffeehouses shut down early in SF, compared to LA at least.


              • Re: Moving to San Francisco

                Fri, July 21, 2006 - 10:26 AM
                The newest incarnation of the Chaise Lounge is the Stray Bar (www.straybarsf.com)
                They have cool happy hour specials, but I still think that the Wild Side West is the best on Cortland!
                Argus has cool drink specials, too. That's on Mission across the street from the Blue Plate...
          • Re: Moving to San Francisco

            Fri, July 21, 2006 - 12:54 PM
            I live in BH and work in the East Bay so I find myself coming home and then having to go out again. When I have something to do downtown or in the Civic Center area, I find it is easiest to drive over to Glen Park (five minutes) and park there. The Glen Park BART has a parking lot that is free and generally has spaces available in the evenings. If there aren't any spaces, street parking is abundant. It's just nice to come home at the end of an evening on BART and then jump into your car and be home without hassle.

            On a totally random note.......I would take the 24 over to the Castro more often instead of driving except I find that as the bus winds it's way through Noe Valley, it's like a roller coaster. Up and down, left and right. I've always wondered why Muni decided on that route for the 24.
            • Re: Moving to San Francisco

              Fri, July 21, 2006 - 1:32 PM
              "Noe Valley, it's like a roller coaster. Up and down, left and right. I've always wondered why Muni decided on that route for the 24."

              Having been involved as a volunteer in several Muni route planning meetings, I can say that their priorities are (1) serviing the largest number of people possible, with a given route (2) connecting with other lines, and (3) getting elderly folks on board (the Muni gets special federal urban mass transit funds for providing service to the elderly and disabled).

              There is also the grandfathering factor inherent in any organization. Once it's planned, it's unlikely to be changed. Some Muni lines haven't been re-done since 1912.

              I've been on the 24 when the bus turned a corner going up a hill, lost its power pole, and the bus lurched backward about 50 feet. Scared the hell out of me, even though I know about the various emergency brakes they have, and the top-notch brake maintenance they do. Still, it scared me. It's not easy to get over those hills.

              But things have been worse. The line used to be diesel, and they had to use special buses for the 24 and the old 55 Sacramento lines because most recent vintage buses couldn't make it up the steep hills (most bus systems nationally do not go up and down such steep hills). At times a bus would simply be overloaded, so the driver would have to ask the passengers to get out and walk to the top of a hill and get back on. Seriously. This is why you still see a few old GM coaches circa 1965 with the streamline windows. Those coaches can take anything. The Muni keeps a few on hand just in case.
          • Re: Moving to San Francisco

            Fri, July 21, 2006 - 1:24 PM
            As for live music, I put on shows featuring unusual live performers with anything from Eastern European folk dance music to avant garde jazz, bluegrass, Western swing, circus bands, and brass bands. I put on shows in SF and Oakland. All events are low-priced in the interest of promoting live shows. Everybody interested in being on my email list for future shows should send email to me at davidkayepromo2@yahoo.com (Make sure the 2 is in the address).
            • Re: Moving to San Francisco

              Fri, July 21, 2006 - 2:00 PM
              Thanks all for your replies - very helpful info. B.F. is in his 5th hour of 8 hour interviews, so I'm crossing my fingers all goes well.

              From everything you guys say, I am still psyched most about living in Bernal Heights - just seems like it has such a cool vibe - I love the local-bent - almost no chains - the whole sustained community thing is awesomness defined. The bars everyone mentioned - are any live music? djs?

              I also read that Bernal Heights has a lot of dogs - any cat lovers? I used to walk my siamese when I lived in South Florida, but haven't since moving North. He loves big parks!

              David, regarding your event, if I come to any, will you let me call the city San Fran - at least one more time??? ;-)
              • Unsu...
                 

                Re: Moving to San Francisco

                Fri, July 21, 2006 - 4:26 PM
                Skips Tavern (www.skipstavern.com) on Cortland has live music every night. Lots of blues, some open-mic stuff. Not any bands you've heard of but I've always had a great time there. Chaise Lounge used to have DJ's, not sure now that it's Stray Bar.

                Yes it seems like everyone has a dog or two. Be careful if you let your cat outside -- it seems like every week there is a new "Missing Cat" poster plastered all over Bernal.
              • Re: Moving to San Francisco

                Fri, July 21, 2006 - 5:12 PM
                There are live bands and DJs at El Rio and the Knockout, and sometimes DJs at the Argus Lounge.
                • Re: Moving to San Francisco

                  Mon, July 24, 2006 - 1:56 PM
                  whoot! so he got the job offer - with a relo package, which is a relief - cross-country moves are daunting tasks, so that will make it a little easier.

                  B.F. checked out Bernal Heights this past weekend - he loved it - said it was the the coolest of the neighborhoods he visited...but there are soooo few vacancies!

                  Is there much difference in "neighborhoody feel" between being close to Cortland Ave and being on the other side of the hill - towards Cesar Chavez?
                  • This is the maximum depth. Additional responses will not be threaded.

                    Re: Moving to San Francisco

                    Tue, July 25, 2006 - 7:48 AM
                    Both slopes are village-y and walkable, but a little different.

                    The south slope has Cortland St as its village square.

                    The north slope of Bernal has Precita Park as its gathering point, and Mission St as its commercial strip.

                    From the north slope, Cortland is quite a hilly walk away, but one is closer to the Mission and, from northwest Bernal, an easy walk to the 24th St BART Station.
                  • This is the maximum depth. Additional responses will not be threaded.

                    Re: Moving to San Francisco

                    Tue, July 25, 2006 - 10:08 PM
                    Congrats on the job offer & bonus relocation package. Wow! Good for you, and wherever you end up....enjoy! (If you end up in Bernal, please spend your first free sunny day in the backyard garden of Wild Side West.)
                  • This is the maximum depth. Additional responses will not be threaded.

                    Re: Moving to San Francisco

                    Thu, July 27, 2006 - 5:15 PM
                    "Is there much difference in "neighborhoody feel" between being close to Cortland Ave and being on the other side of the hill - towards Cesar Chavez? "

                    Neighborhood feel on both sides, but they're different neighborhoods. On the Cesar Chavez side there are a lot of parents with kids (the playground in Precita Park there is busy all the time during the day), but they're more middle class, so you won't see the designer baby buggies and the yuppie feel you experience on the south side of Bernal hill.
                    • Re: Moving to San Francisco

                      Sun, July 30, 2006 - 3:26 PM
                      I don't think South Slopers are more yuppie than North Slopers-- if anything, North Slope homes on average are more expensive-- though perhaps David you are reacting to the restaurants on Cortland and shops on Cortland, which have been trending upscale in recent years. Still, I think bohemian style predominates over yuppie style, even on Cortland St.

                      Among the best snapshots of Bernal attitudes are Bernal voting records. Bernal voters vote in very high percentages, and are among the most progressive voters in SF, and therefore, in the US. North Bernal and South Bernal voting records are similar, but if one had to distinguish, North Bernal votes in slightly higher numbers and is slightly more progressive than South Bernal.
                      • Re: Moving to San Francisco

                        Sun, July 30, 2006 - 3:46 PM
                        You can see that, according to the Progressive Voter Index, District 9, which includes Bernal Heights, is the most progressive District in SF, by voting record:

                        www.sfusualsuspects.com/DeLeon...004.pdf

                        You can see that some precincts in the Mission, Hayes Valley, and the Haight vote somewhat more progressive than Bernal Heights, but in Bernal, even the precincts that are mostly homeowners vote more progressive than most of the City. Bernal homeowners are more likely than homeowners elsewhere to vote for bonds that will increase their property tax bills (since only bonds and parcel taxes can increase property tax beyond the 2% Prop 13 cap).
                      • Re: Moving to San Francisco

                        Mon, July 31, 2006 - 2:24 PM
                        "hough perhaps David you are reacting to the restaurants on Cortland and shops on Cortland, which have been trending upscale in recent years."

                        That, and watching the people and what kinds of clothes their kids wear, what types of strollers they push, etc. Now, I'm not talking the south side of Cortland toward the Farmer's Market. I'm talking between the hill and Cortland. And believe me, since I do a lot of in-home computer consulting around there, there are many people on south Bernal who are loaded.

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